Powermatic · Jointer · 1957 to the late 1990s
Powermatic 60 8-Inch Jointer
Powermatic's 8 in jointer was the long-running heart of its line. Serial numbers start in 1957, and the 1963 catalog lists it with a 64 in production table as standard, a three-knife head in oversize sealed bearings and motors from 3/4 to 1-1/2 HP in single- or three-phase. Later versions got a 72 in long bed and Powermatic's controlled-chip cutterhead at 7,000 RPM, and the brochure called it American made. The fence is center-mounted cast iron and the tables ride on dovetailed ways, which is the setup you want on a jointer this size. The bed length tells you roughly which generation you're looking at. An 8 in jointer flattens wider boards than a 6, and a complete 60 with its guard and a motor that suits your power is a jointer you buy once.
Early 60 with a 64 in bed and 5,000 RPM headLater 60 with the 72 in long bed and 7,000 RPM controlled-chip headGreen, gold and yellow paint by era
Spec at a glance
- Maker
- Powermatic
- Machine
- Jointer
- Motors sold
- Single or 3-phase
- Launched
- 1957
- Made
- 1957 to the late 1990s
- Capacity
- 8 in wide, 1/2 in maximum depth of cut and rabbet
- Bed
- 64 in on early jointers, 72 in long bed on later ones (8-1/2 x 72 in)
- Cutterhead
- 3 knives; 5,000 RPM early, 7,000 RPM controlled-chip head later
- Fence
- 4 x 34-1/2 in center-mounted cast iron (later brochure)
- Motor
- 3/4 to 1-1/2 HP early; later 1-1/2 HP single-phase or 2 HP three-phase
- Weight
- 440 lb with stand (later 72 in model)
- Also listed as
- PM60, PM 60, Model 60, Powermatic 60 jointer
Shop check
Power, iron, fence and freight
- Power and phase
- Powermatic offered single-phase and three-phase motors on the 60 from the start, 3/4 to 1-1/2 HP in 1963 and later 1-1/2 HP single-phase (115/230 V) or 2 HP three-phase. Check the phase on the motor plate in the photos. A three-phase jointer needs a VFD or a phase converter on house power.
- Motor and bearings
- The 1963 manual says the cutterhead runs in oversize dust-sealed ball bearings. Ask for a video of the jointer running with the guard pulled back. The head should spin up quickly and run with a steady hum, without a rumble or a knock.
- Table and rust
- The cast-iron tables slide on dovetailed ways, so check the photos for broken ways or gib screws. The infeed and outfeed tables should look straight and level with each other. Rust on the tables cleans up, but a cracked casting doesn't.
- Fence, guards and gauges
- The fence is center-mounted cast iron, about 34-1/2 in long on later jointers. It should tilt and lock at 90 and 45 degrees. Check that the cutterhead guard is there, because a jointer with no guard is dangerous.
- Trunnions and adjustments
- The tables raise and lower on dovetailed ways with gibs. Ask the seller to move both tables through their range on video. They should move smoothly and lock without rocking.
- Blades and knives
- It takes three straight knives 8 in long, a common jointer size, and Powermatic sold a Model 150 Quik-Set knife gauge for setting them. Later jointers have Powermatic's controlled-chip head. Ask whether the knives are sharp and whether a spare set comes with it.
- Dating it
- Read the serial on the badge. Serials of 3nnn are 1957 to 1960 and N-nnnn 1958 to 1967, and from 1968 the model code is 61 rather than 60 (N61-nnnn to 1977, NN61-nnnn after). A 64 in bed points to an early jointer and a 72 in bed to a later one.
- Moving it
- The later 72 in model weighs about 440 lb with its stand. The jointer comes off the stand, which makes two lighter pieces. Strap the tables down so they can't slide on their ways in transit.
- Safety upgrades
- Make sure the spring-loaded cutterhead guard is there and snaps back over the head. Bring push blocks for the first cuts. Replace a cracked or frayed power cord.
Should come with it
- Cutterhead guard
- Fence with its tilting bracket
- Stand and motor
- Knife-setting gauge if possible
Hard to find if missing
- Original cutterhead guard
- Fence bracket and tilt parts
- Made-in-USA Powermatic parts
Check the listing photos against these lists, and ask the seller about anything you can’t see. A missing fence, guard or motor should come off the price.
What to check
Worn or damaged dovetail ways and gibs make the tables sag, and a missing cutterhead guard is a safety problem. Three-phase motors are common on shop machines, so check the motor before you buy.
- 01Bed length: Check the listing or ask for the bed length. 64 in means an early jointer and 72 in a later one.
- 02Tables: Ask for a photo down the tables with a straightedge on them. Both tables should be flat and level with each other.
- 03Ways and gibs: Ask the seller to raise and lower each table on video. They should move smoothly and lock without rocking.
- 04Guard: Check the photos for the cutterhead guard. It should swing back over the knives on its own.
- 05Knives: Ask whether the knives are sharp and unchipped. A spare set is a bonus.
- 06Motor plate: Ask for a photo of the motor plate. You want the phase your shop has, or a plan for a VFD.
- 07Running: Ask for a video of it running. The head should hum steadily with no knock.
- 08Serial: Ask for a photo of the badge. The serial tells you the year, with 61 as the model code after 1967.
New to old iron? How to check a used woodworking machine covers runout, the table, bearings and the parts that go missing, and shipping a heavy machine covers freight, pickup and rigging it into the shop.
Buying guide
Which one to buy
§ Oct 19, 2026Knives, gibs and a manual are on eBay for the Powermatic 60, but no jointer. Three-phase motors are common on these shop jointers, so the motor plate matters most when one shows up. A straightedge laid across both tables catches sagging ways, and the photos should show the cutterhead guard.
- Listed now
- 0
- For parts
- 0
- Catalog estimate
- $20–$50
Snapshot
For sale on eBay
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